Mysteries of Cretan Bureaucracy

The case of modern Aptera

We used to live in the Metoxi (Metochi) part of Megala Chorafia, but now - and without even moving to a new house - we suddenly live in Aptera.
Not in the ancient Aptera, of course, the hill covered in Roman ruins amidst local sheep, but in the modern invention by some unknown Greek planning committee.

The planning, however - lest we forget that we are on Crete - has not been implemented fully.

From the highway, whether you come from East or West, there are still signs that mark the exit as leading to Megala Chorafia and Stylos, but once you've passed that sign (left image) and turn off to climb up the winding road, there is no more Megala Chorafia to be found. All signs show that you're entering (or leaving) the village of Aptera - Megala Chorafia is completely gone.

This has been done just recently, around the beginning of March 2008, and it will surely necessitate the revision of all maps showing Western Crete and of travel guides such as the detailed and commendable Crete On The Road (by Frankie Miles).

Also, the change of name has not yet drifted through the offices of bus operator KTEL, where a ticket to this village still reads Chania - Meg. Chorafia.

But then, why should one be surprised? People who live here (Cretan and German, Greek and English, Dutch and Danish and Austrian - not counting the tourists) are well acquainted with living in a weird limbo of decentralisation (a synonym for chaos) that marks this area.

• Our water comes from Stylos (Municipality of Armeni) but one pays for it in Souda (Municipality of Souda)
• Our phones and DSL are dependent on OTE technicians in Kalyves (Municipality of Armeni) but are arranged, ruled and regulated by the famous (some would say notorious) OTE office in Vamos (Municipality of Vamos)
• It seems, according to some websites and maps, that we belong to the Municipality of Souda, but also the Municipality of Armeni invites it's visitors to visit Megala Chorafia and Aptera
• Our phones have the 28250 prefix, whereas people in Souda have the same one as Chania: 28210
• We get our mail from the post office in Kalyves rather than from Souda, and our postal code is 730 03 just like all the surrounding villages (Armeni, Provarma, Stylos, Kalyves, Kalami etc.)
• We are part of Souda (politically speaking), but geographically we belong to the Apokoronas district.

All of this does not, naturally, disturb the amazing silence we enjoy here nor our superb view of the White Mountains beyond the expanse of green meadows and olive groves. The sounds that do reach us, apart from chicken, sheep or roosters, are the gunshots when a hunter missed his rabbit and trains the rifle on a signpost instead.

Follows a map (based on a GoogleMaps image) of the combined modern and ancient Aptera:

Legend:

1. Exit from highway (National Road)
2. Platia of Aptera village (until recently known as Megala Chorafia) with three Taverna's and a nearby Mini Market
3. Part of Aptera village also known as Kafes, and so given on earlier maps
4. Part of Aptera village also known as Metoxi (Metochi), and so given on earlier maps
5. Main complex of Ancient Aptera with ruins of Roman cisterns and bathhouses, remnants of Greek temples and a 12th century Christian monastery
6. Turkish fort, late 19th century

1. highway towards Souda and Chania
2. road from/to Stylos
3. exit from highway for Kalami, Kalives
4. Kalami
5. although originally a Venetian bastion, the place is known as Izzedine/Itzedin since the Turks conquered it in 1645. After the Turkish occupation, it served as a prison and is presently used by the Greek military.
6. highway towards Armeni, Rethymnon

I'd like to hear from others about similar (administrative) situations here on Crete.
If you feel like contributing to the Green Horse section of this site, please use the Contact link above and send your mail to Rufus.

For more information about Aptera and the Apokoronas region, try to get hold of the following Guide-Book: